Open Bra Surgery - What goes into a Dance Bra Reconstruction

So I thought I would do a blog post on what goes into re-working a bra. I recently had a commission through which involved changing the shape and size of a much loved dance costume, and managed to take photos of the process, and thought I would share these to show what really goes into having to "refurbish" a dance bra!

So this was the original bra... It was a lovely "Dina" style cup, however the cup size was far too small for the owner, and the cups were too rigid to accommodate any flexibility in size or style. As much as I love Dina bras, they can be very unflattering if you aren't the right body shape! The aim of the game here was to try and recreate the design as much as possible, whilst making the bra larger and a more comfortable design.

 

There are a few ways you can do this, depending on the look you want to achieve, however I decided to go down the route of using a completely new bra, and re-covering and embroidering. I felt this would give the best fit, and it meant that myself and the client were able to go through plenty of different bra designs and sizes to make sure we picked the perfect fit. The first step of creating the new bra was chopping off the old straps, and covering the bra with a lining fabric. This bra was actually a swimsuit bra and so fairly rigid, and because there was not any very heavy embellishment, I could get away with not having to reinforce with any heavy duty lining or interfacing.

 

I then began transferring the fabric over. I call this part the open bra surgery as it involves gently unpicking every single stitch on the old bra, so that we can preserve as much fabric as possible, as well as all the beadwork which I stored in handy jars for later.

As you can see I've now made fine progress - the fabric is transferred, the bra is taking shape. What you may find if you are working on something similar is that you might have to fabric match. Luckily with this particular fabric I was able to match some similar silks in a matching cream and blue - however, what I tend to recommend is if you can't find a matching patterned fabric, I would go with a plain fabric with of the dominant colour within the pattern. If you can't find a match for a plain fabric you have - go with contrasting! See what looks best, just because you are re-furbing a bra, doesn't mean you have to stick to the original exactly.

 

And this is the bra during all the painstaking beadwork! At this point I was glad I took reference photos as it gets to a point where you forget what the original looked like! Everything on this was beaded by hand. I was very lucky with this particular costume as the owner is a very dedicated dancer and takes really good care of her costumes, and so I didn't need to replace any beads. If you are finding you need to replace beads however, go for the best quality you can find - glass beads give the best shine, I tend to spend at least £10 for 30 large cut glass beads, and they really do sparkle!

 

A few tips for if you are planning to re-work or fix up any old costumes:

 

1. Crystals are the first thing to deteriorate. Make sure if you are planning to sew or hot fix any crystals on to your costumes that they are A grade standard or Swarovski. A Grade are great as they are a close replica of Swarovski, however they are a little bit cheaper if you are saving your pennies. Of course, nothing beats the shimmer of Swarovski crystals! A BIG no-no for costumes is Acrylic Crystals - you know the ones, plastic, gaudy and CHEAP. I wouldn't touch those with a barge pole unless I was making throw-away garments/costumes, and neither should you!

 

2. Keep the straps! Sometimes when you are re-working a costume, you can re-use the straps! This can be great if you just want to change the cup size, but everything else is a-ok. And if nothing else - you can re-use the clasps on other costumes!

 

3. Always keep spare beads and crystals. They come in handy for repairs and re-working costumes. I like to keep some matching spares in a little tub in with each costume - so if I'm ever off to do a gig and find a crystal is missing, I can quickly re-do it before I go out! Get in the habit of checking these things, as the last thing you want is missing gemstones on your best cossie!

 

 

Good luck!

 

 

Final Note for the Day:

If you are looking for crystals, check out Eimass - these guys produce incredible hot fix, and sew on crystals and gems, and I have always found them to be a lovely quality. Shhh! It's our little secret!

If you want to use this post in your e-zine, blog or newsletter, please go ahead! But make sure that you credit Louise Brooks - www.louisebellydancer.co.uk

Getting into the Mood... Pre-Performance Rituals, and Make-up Must Haves! Part 2

I have been very lucky to be able to interview two gorgeous Tribal and Tribal Fusion Bellydance Stars about their performance rituals and how they prepare for the stage! Both Hilde and Charlotte are big inspirations for me, and to be able to chat to them about how they prepare to perform, it's a real treat!

Hilde Canoodt

Hi Hilde! Really great to chat to you. Your performances are so varied, and I know you are working a lot with Contemporary Dance and Fusing that with your Bellydance. How do you prepare for these performances and do you have any rituals to help ground you before a performance?

I'm in a weird transitional fase at the moment as a dancer. I used to wear a lot of stage make up, headdresses,... to add to the theatricality of my performance. But in the last few years a lot has shifted: I've been 'digging deep' and been trying to find my voice as a dancer. This goes together with lots of travelling and not having a home for about 2 years now. I feel quite nomadic. So I haven't got access to many of my costumes at the moment, and I've noticed that I started to 'shed' the layers of theatricality like make up, hair and costuming and when for more simple, natural look. Sometimes I hardly wear any make up, as I'm trying to find ways to dance from the inside out, wearing thick layers of make up seems to be contradicting that idea. I have a feeling once I have a home again and stop travelling so much, my pretty dresses will come out of the storage cupboard and I will bring more focus to my make up/hair/costuming rituals. I find it interesting how you can see dancers whole life on the stage, following their development as a dancer usually goes hand in hand with their personal life. For me: I feel I used to be much more of an entertainer and felt my performance was to please the crowd. Now, I want to dance from the inside out: more bare, and I think it shows in my aesthetic.
Wow, that is a really powerful idea. I love how you are really expressing yourself now as a performer. If you do wear make-up during performances, what is your cosmetic bag must have? I really do like my MAC eye liner: it's this little pot of black paint with the consistency of shoe polish it doesn't smudge and gives clear lines with a mat look. Even if I wear nothing else, I like to enhance the eyes as the eyes are so expressive in a dancer, I think it's important to enhance them.

Definately - The eyes are the window to the soul! Where do you get your inspiration from for costuming and makeup?
My inspiration comes from a number of sources: I will see someone's look on stage and go: oh that's beautiful and often have a chat with them to ask about their aesthetic choices. I like a more natural look often, but I do enjoy a bold lip colour too.

Where can dancers find out more about you and your performing?
I run a festival every year: Tribal Remix in Brighton, UK - www.tribalremix.co.uk I teach and perform in the UK and abroad - please visit my website www.hildedancer.com or find me on facebook (Hilde Cannoodt)

Charlotte Wassell

Hi Charlotte! You are such a Tribal Rockstar - how do you like to prepare for your performances?

Ideally the day of a performance I like to have a good workout of some kind, even if it is much earlier in the day, so I feel warmed-up to be able to perform my best. If I have time, I really like to go to town with my make-up – plenty of shading and lots of glitter and stick-on Swarovski accents in addition to the obligatory bindi. Usually I’m listening to my performance music in order to “brainwash” myself and get in the zone.

That's a great idea! Listening to your music before performing really helps ground you and get you in the "zone". What cosmetic item can you not live without in your gig bag?

Ok so this is not a make-up item, but I totally panic if I don’t have tictacs in my gig bag! I got this tip from the stunning Kathleen Pearlson (look her up) and as I really suffer from dry mouth when performing it totally changed things for me. Stick one or two under your tongue just before you go on and it stimulates your saliva so voilà! No dry mouth and a beautiful smile! 

Awesome tip! Who inspires you when it comes to your own personal bellydance look?

At the moment I don’t have a particular person who inspires me, but I really like the dark heavy eyes common in Tribal belly dance. I rarely wear much make-up on a day-to-day basis so it’s fun to go to the other end of the spectrum when I perform!

Where can dancers find out more about you and your performing?

http://www.hildedancer.com/teachers/

https://www.facebook.com/charlottio

https://www.facebook.com/TerzimUKSA

http://www.youtube.com/user/terzimtribal

Images courtesy of J. Christos Photography

Final Note for the Day:

Explore different styles of dance. Bellydance is a fantastic and diverse dance form, but don't be afraid to peek out of the box and have a look into Odissi, Russian Folk Dances, Ballet, Contemporary, Jazz... You may find it benefits your Bellydance in ways you never imagined! Take a leap of faith and see what you can discover!

Want to catch up on my 100 day Belly Dance Challenge? Don't forget to check out my YouTube playlist here.

If you want to use this post in your e-zine, blog or newsletter, please go ahead! But make sure that you credit Louise Brooks - www.louisebellydancer.co.uk

Puttin' On the Ritz - The Glamour of Stage Shows!

Helen and Cherie

So it's been rather quiet on the blog front recently, and with good reason! This Wednesday just gone (22nd October) was the Sheikh It! Bellydance Show! Organised and put together by myself and Natasha with the idea in mind that we wanted to get together as many professional dancers as possible and put on a theatre show to the general public to really showcase the talent and skill of the dancers, as well as showing what a remarkable and versatile dance form bellydance is!

So What's it like to put on a stage show?

Left to Right: Cherie, Kassandra, Amy,
Mim, Sabrynah, Natasha

Well - it's definitely different to doing a normal showcase that's for sure! There is so much to think about! I think the biggest challenge for me was the technical aspect of the show, lighting, timings, rehearsals... It's all a lot to take in if you are just used to being able to rock up, do a bit of decoration, and then have the dancers do their thing!

But despite all the stress that comes with organising a big show, the best thing about doing a theatre show is the magic when it all comes together, and the audience comes in, everything goes quiet, and the first performance begins. It really is an incredible experience, and is worth every sleepless night!

One of the most awesome things about doing this show was being able to collaborate with so many different dancers, to form new bonds, learn from each other, and really create a spectacular show!

Is performing in a stage show different to performing in a showcase?

 Oh yes! The lights are brighter, the stage is (usually) bigger, and there is a lot more to think about! It's often harder to interact with the audience like you would do in a restaurant or a smaller more intimate hafla or showcase, and you really have to make sure you look out into the room, despite the fact that it looks pitch black because of the bright lights shining up at you! Plus, you can really go to town with make-up and costuming, as the lights will really pick up crystals, sparkles and glitter and more elaborate costumes look incredible on stage.

The backstage area is often more crowded as well in the theatre, and full of hustle and bustle, girls putting on makeup, practicing pieces, helping each other into costumes, swapping jewellery and sharing cosmetics. There is such a sense of camaraderie before a big show, and it creates a real "back stage family" feeling. There is definitely nothing like it!

Left To Right: Kassandra, Natasha, Mim, Me!, Cherie

What should I do if I want to put on my own show?

Research venues to start off with, think about how much it would cost to hire and how much you would need to charge for tickets and minimum ticket sales to make the show viable. Once you are happy with all this, then invite dancers to perform! Everyone loves to be invited to perform at a show, so send out some feelers and make some connections! Make this a chance to network with dancers in your local area and to make new friends. Also, think about if you want your show to have a theme or a story running through it, lots of showcases have themes that the dancers stick to which can work really well to build a show around!

Final Note for the Day:

Bellydance is a great way to meet people! In your next dance class, or the next event you go to, try and have a chat with a dancer you haven't met yet! It's a good way to make new connections, and you never know, you might just find a bellydance soulmate!

Want to catch up on my 100 day Belly Dance Challenge? Don't forget to check out my YouTube playlist here.

If you want to use this post in your e-zine, blog or newsletter, please go ahead! But make sure that you credit Louise Brooks - www.louisebellydancer.co.uk

Costume Maintenance 101

Costumes are important. They are such an investment, almost like collecting artwork. Every dancer remembers buying their first proper costume, tracing their fingers over the beadwork, running their hands through the fringing, the sparkling of the crystals, and sequined designs glittering away in a multitude of colours. You always treasure that first costume that makes you feel like a princess, and when you put it on to perform, you feel transformed into a belly dance goddess.

So after spending so much money on your precious, glittery babies, I thought I would give you some top tips on how to protect your precious cargo in between performances, and how to maintain their glamour so you can wear them with pride for many years to come!

• Sequins can lose colour when they come into contact with perfumes, deodrants and glitter sprays. I reccomend applying all these things before putting on your beautiful costume, to ensure you are not spraying anything directly onto sequins and gemstones. This will stop them from tarnishing or losing colour, and keep them shining for longer!
• After every performance, check your clasps! As soon as you get home from your performance, check the strength of each clasp and make a note of what might need restitching before your next show! This means that you are actively keeping on top of any wear and tear, aswell as preventing any costume mishaps in the future!
• After purchasing a new costume, I like to check the beadwork, rhinestones and fringing carefully. Sometimes costumes can have loose threads that can result in beads dissappearing or bits of fringing coming loose. These things are very easy to rectify, if they are caught in time! Make sure to check your costume when first purchased, and then after big performances to make sure nothing has caught or come loose. With fringing, you can paint a little bit of clear nail polish at the end of each strand which will secure any knots and prevent unravelling!
• Air out your costume after each wear. I don't often "wash" my costumes due to the fact they are so delicate, an airing is normally good enough! However if something is in dire need of a clean, I will gently hand wash in cold water in my bath with a little bit of baby shampoo. Cold water because it prevents colors running, and baby shampoo as it is usually unfragranced, and very very gentle! I then gently press out any extra moisture into a towel, and dry flat. DO NOT TUMBLE DRY OR MACHINE WASH COSTUMES.
• I like to store my costumes in laundry bags or zip up fabric bags. I try to keep any delicate fabrics away from bedlahs or very ornate costumes to prevent any runs or snags. I also keep some silica gel packets in the boxes I keep my costumes in as it prevents any moisture from getting to the costumes!
• Last but not least, if your costume is very heavy with a lot of beading, store folded and flat, do not hang. Purely because (especially with cabaret dresses) the beading is so heavy it causes the fabric to stretch! And you don't want a misshapen costume! The same goes (Suprisingly) for circle skirts, as some fabric likes to "grow" and so hems can become uneven over time! I tend to store my circle skirts, rolled up, rather than hung.

I hope this has helped you with any costume questions you may have! If you have any other top tips on how to look after your costumes, let me know in the comments! I'd love to hear!

Final Note for the Day:

When buying a costume, don't rush. Take your time. Think about where you might wear it, what pieces you might dance in it. Don't be persuaded by the sequins alone. (And I know it's hard, as they are very persuasive!) Remember, you need a costume that you will want to wear again and again, and like the little black dress, is timeless.

If you want to use this post in your e-zine, blog or newsletter, please go ahead! But make sure that you credit Louise Brooks - www.louisebellydancer.co.uk